I’m learning what a big deal community is here, particularly when it comes to the major events of life. I still find the insistence on visiting the (temporarily) sick bemusing though. I’ve been fortunate enough to avoid any illnesses necessitating such a show of friendship and support but as soon as any of the teachers are off school, their colleagues rush round to see them – can’t imagine anything worse!
What I do think is lovely however is the support of the bereaved. Deo, our school bus driver recently lost his father and the whole community rallied round with visits, prayers and financial support to pay for the funeral, travel expenses etc.
It is the same for weddings, ordinations and other big life events. It’s not just left to the people concerned; these are real community affairs... A committee is formed which helps to organise everything and anyone who may be vaguely involved contributes what they can to the cost of the celebration.
This month we’ve been to both a wedding and an ordination. Both were beautiful and both demonstrated the strength and importance of community. With everyone so involved the sense of celebration and joy really permeates proceedings, and I’ve said many times how much these people like to party!
Since Easter, life has largely been jogging along in a routine of school, orphanage, and community.Standard 4 and 7 students are preparing for National Exams and are being ‘tested’ within an inch of themselves!The pressure is particularly on for Standard 7 as their results will decide their entry to secondary school and in Tanzania, where only 25% of children get a secondary education this is really important.The present Standard 7 is the first one to go through St. Ignatius’ but they seem to be excelling and have the promise of a brand new Jesuit High School waiting for them if they pass.It is incredible to witness the hard work of the staff and students – school days from 7:30am–4pm and Saturdays from 7:30–1pm, then there is the homework, which is almost always done...So different from home!
I have to say though, I feel really sorry for them with all the constant testing and cramming – not that they seem to mind!I’ve made a point of taking word searches, games and puzzles for my standard 4s this week though.The excitement this causes is unbelievable and I’m constantly having kids accost me with finished puzzles, begging for more...
Lessons at the orphanage have benefitted from the arrival of ‘dress up dolls’ (courtesy of mum) and glossy ‘I Wonder Why?’ type books (courtesy of Uncle Frank).These have provided opportunities to play (the dolls) but to then introduce the character and describe her outfit in English and to do some basic science complete with funny facts.
We’ve met a lot of very interesting people over the last few weeks.A friend of ours took us to dinner with her dad who is an MP (he’s held various ministerial positions in the past but is now a back-bencher).He offered to take us to parliament and sent his driver to collect us after school for the evening session.They were debating a bill about agriculture of which we understood little except for bits about honey, eggs & foodie type words we’ve learned!It was interesting to see it in action though – the procedures were incredibly like the House of Commons – right down to the mace.The sessions are filmed and there was one acutely embarrassing momentwhen we became aware of a close up of our white legs beaming out of the big screens – followed swiftly by not-too-well-stifled giggling an numerousPMs turning round to gaze at us in the balcony!
In the community, May seems to be the month of birthdays and we started with Erin’s – her celebration at community night was something to behold, with both cake and drink being danced round on heads!I’m looking forward to the rest of the birthdays and the excuse to bake more cake...
Even here it was nice to break up for the school holidays. Holy Week started with a Palm Sunday procession of impressive proportions. Thousands of people gathered at the youth centre, bringing an array of greenery to wave and were accompanied en route to church by various choirs singing enthusiastic ‘hosannas.’
We spent a busy week preparing for Easter and ensuring Martin and Mira’s birthdays were suitably celebrated! The triduum services were quite an experience. Good Friday attracted about 4000 people, half of whom were outside the church – with so many present, I shouldn’t have been surprised by the three hour liturgy!
The Easter Vigil was spectacular – parishioners had decorated the church beautifully, the choir had been practicing for months and the bonfire was crackling. I don’t think I’ve ever been to such a joyful Mass. There were about 50 children dressed in white and leading the liturgical dance and the choir excelled themselves – particularly with their Kiswihili rendition of the Halleluiah Chorus. The congregation themselves were in fine voice with plenty of trilling, whooping and dancing. Then, in the midst of all that, 80 adults were baptised. By 1am, after 4 hours, it was finally all over and time for the party to begin at the parish! Truly a night of celebration...
Easter Sunday saw 100 babies being baptised and we were on duty providing party games for the ‘dancing children.’ We’d made a piñata which they were unbelievably excited about (as were we)! The rest of the day was spent visiting families in the parish before dinner and dancing at the sisters’ in the evening.
On Easter Monday, Erin, Mira and I left for Nairobi. We stopped overnight with American volunteers in Moshi and saw the magnificent Kilimanjaro. Nairobi was great fun – tourist activities included Karen Blixen’s farm (Out of Africa), feeding giraffes, visiting an elephant orphanage, playing with a cheetah and spending far too much at the Masai market. We also went to the Kazuri bead factory, where single mothers make the most beautiful jewellery – clearly it was only right to make a few purchases to support such a cause! Off the tourist track we visited an inspirational orphanage and grandparent/ children village and the new centre for Peace Studies – both Jesuit foundations.
After a stop back in Dodoma for Mira’s goodbye party, Erin and I accompanied her to Dar for her flight back to Germany. It’s been really sad to see her go – she’s been great fun to live with. Still, she’s already e-mailing us instructions and tantalizing me with accounts of lovely German food. Her departure made me realize that I’m over half way through my own time here – can’t believe how fast it is going!
I’ve been really struck over the last couple of weeks at how little, unexpected things can bring such joy. Mum has been sending me bits and pieces to use with the kids. One of these was ‘Sparkle World’ – an activity magazine for children. I took it to the orphanage and the kids’ eyes nearly popped out of their heads. I would never have anticipated the excitement and pleasure it could give – we’ve spent hours doing puzzles, playing games, sticking stickers and reading stories. £2:45 incredibly well spent! There are no gender issues either, the boys have loved it every bit as much as the girls...
The bike rides to and from the orphanage have become one of my favourite parts of the week. You see so much of life going on along the roads – women & men labouring hard to widen the road, children playing in the new ditches, students coming from school and practicing their English greetings (usually “good morning” even at 6pm). I particularly love the part of the route through the bush – I’m passing at a time when the Masai pastoralists are driving their animals home, so I often have to give way for the cows and goats which saunter across my path. There are also women making their way home with their loads on their heads or farming their small plots. The whole journey is spent exchanging greetings most often “salama” (peace).
When I arrive at the orphanage, there are always a couple of kids at the gate – not waiting for me as much as for my bike, which is promptly commandeered and ridden round the enclosure with numerous kids aboard. Even the older girls love their turn. Annunciata likes to accompany me part of the way home – she’s trying to get me to perch behind her, which I just can’t master, so I end up having to peddle with her behind, resulting in the two of us veering at bizarre angles across the road!
A couple of weeks ago one of these jaunts led to an unfortunate meeting with a thorn bush and by the time I got to the tarmaced road, my back tyre was completely flat. Luckily there was a fundi right at the side of the road. (Fundis are wonderful menders-of-all-things. Nothing is ever thrown out here – there’s always a handy fundi to fix the seemingly unsalvageable). So, I ended up perched on a log at the side of the road while the fundi fixed my puncture, rapidly becoming a specimen of extreme interest for the local children. I had foam animal stickers with me which they were really excited to put on their clothes. After we’d swapped names, I’d taught them the animals in English and they’d taught me them in Kiswahili, I was running out of ideas so we ended up singing “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes” – much to the amusement of the fundis and the gathering adults. The next week as I went past, a small crowd gathered clapping & waving as I cycled past puncture free!
These little things, the unexpected connections and the easy fun will stay with me as much as the safaris and the beaches I am sure.
We went on safari to Mikumi national park last weekend. The DIY nature of our escapade meant that the whole thing only cost £60 but also that there were a number of mishaps/ adventures along the way. On Friday we skived work, packed up the Jesuits’ elderly Land Cruiser and headed to Morogoro. About half way there we got a puncture, so we all piled out while Martin changed the wheel. In Morogoro we stayed at a Salvatorian seminary where one of the Dodoma community is teaching – it’s in a beautiful situation at the foot of the Uluguru mountains. We had a good evening at a local restaurant, followed by a bit of star gazing!
On Saturday we headed to Mikumi where we managed to find a bargain motel with, luxury of luxuries, air con in each room! Even before we got into the park, we’d seen giraffes, elephants and baboons along the side of the road. The park itself is teeming with life, much of which proved to be obliging when it came to posing for photos! It was amazing to be so close to the animals in their own habitats. The natural habitats became less alluring however when we inadvertently drove through an area infested by tsetse flies. A frantic killing spree ensued after which the Land Cruiser was liberally splattered with blood – killing those things is not pretty! We then sweltered our way out of the area with all the windows closed, only to emerge with another puncture. Changing this in the park while in search of lions made the second change of tyre a particularly swift operation!
After dinner that night, we returned to my room for Konyagi (local gin) only to have Erin jump on my bed and the whole thing collapse! By the time the staff had hammered it all back together again we’d nearly finished laughing. Erin’s bruises are still serving as amusing reminders however...
Sunday was a very early start in the continuing quest for the illusive big cats. This time we took a guide with us but even he didn’t manage to locate them. Still, we did find a beautiful spot to have Mass – lovely to celebrate together amidst the early morning sights and sounds of the park.
When we finally gave up on our simba search, we headed back to Morogoro and our 3rd puncture. The spare wheel hadn’t yet been mended, so poor Martin had to roll it miles back down the road to have it fixed. Fortunately someone gave him a lift back on their motorbike.
After a meal and tyre fix in Morogoro we left for Dodoma and puncture number 4 – in the pitch black for variety! There then only remained the requisite stop by corrupt police who were hard pushed to find a reason for bribery until they hit on the fact that the interior light wasn’t working. Kiarie played the priest card and eventually we were ‘let off’ again. So we’re back with happy memories, great photos and exhaustion we’re hoping isn’t sleeping sickness courtesy of the tsetse flies..
The longer I’m here, the more I become aware of the many layers and contrasts of life in Tanzania. The greatest joy of being here is the emerging relationships and friendships and the fun and sharing arising from these.
A couple of weeks ago Mira was really ill and the care, concern and practical help offered to her and us as she struggled to get a diagnosis and treatment was remarkable. At the same time, the reality of inadequate health provision was brought home. Mira was eventually admitted to a private clinic. ‘Private’ in this instance was misleading – although she had a private room it was extremely basic and the actual medical treatment available was limited. For a ‘real’ hospital you need to make the 7 hour journey to Dar Es Salaam. They diagnosed her with Typhoid and Malaria (as they apparently do with almost everyone, the theory being that these are likely culprits for most symptoms, so treat for them and hope for the best).
Almost as soon as she was admitted people started to visit from the Cheshire home where she works. They came bearing freshly baked bread, juice and fruit. We soon realised that you don’t get and food or drink in hospital here – friends and relatives provide. Even Consolatha, a delightful 13 year old from school appeared at our house, helped me make soup and raided my craft pack to head up the production of get well cards.
The rallying round didn’t seem enough though when we arrived in the evening to find Mira had accidently pulled out her drip, was covered in blood and rehydration fluids and was unable to get the attention of a nurse. Plus of course, you’re very aware that even this standard of care is beyond most people who have to take their chances at the over-crowded government clinics, or simply go without.
Another eye opener was while playing a ‘Snakes & Ladders’ type game with the kids at the orphanage. The game encourages the practice of English by giving a topic to talk about on each square. One of the topics was ‘family’ which I was nervous about but thought we’d stick to siblings. It turned out that a number of the kids also talked about their parents though. When I asked the sisters about this later, they explained that lots of the children do have one or both parents but they can’t afford the HIV drugs, so they send them to the orphanage where they know they’ll be given the anti-retrovirals and diet they need.
The contrasts were even more evident last weekend when a now fully recovered Mira, Erin & I enjoyed a fabulous couple of days at Kipepeo beach just south of Dar Es Salaam. Being surrounded by white tourists and travelling types felt a bit strange at first, but the beautiful beach, warm Indian ocean, good food and mojitos saw off any scruples pretty fast!
The trip came about as two of the Jesuits were going to Dar to collect a new school bus and we went along for the ride – a ride that was on a bus run by a Muslim company and as it was Friday, we were subjected to 2 hours of loud Arabic chanting & prayers over the radio! It turned out the ‘new’ school bus is a 1989 Japanese model which they still had to pay £15000 import duty on. (The widespread corruption is incredibly frustrating. I first encountered it when collecting a parcel for Erin from the post office. Despite the duty slip saying the equivalent of about 60p was owing, it was not released until I’d handed over £12). Even after the port officials had been satisfied, we were stopped on the journey home by police who accused us of being a commercial vehicle travelling illegally at night. The paperwork showing purchase that day did little to persuade them otherwise and they spent an hour trying to extract a bribe. Eventually they came on the bus and quizzed Erin, Mira & me for a bit in Kiswahili. We answered what we could and attempted to look as if we understood the rest. The police then decided we had nice smiles, told the Jesuits they should get us home and let us go without payment. Can’t imagine quite what they were looking at as I was hard pressed to manage anything like a smile to them!
Last weekend we finally made it up Simba Rock – a rocky mountain (or more correctly kind of outcrop) dominating the local area. We've been planning to go almost since we arrived, but something always seemed to crop up. We went up late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and in hope of seeing the sunset. In the event the sunset was nice but not spectacular. I loved lying on the warm rocks at the top though... It was a good time of year to go as the vast plains are incredibly green due to the particularly generous rainy season this year. Typical that I’d come to Africa and have more rain than I’ve ever seen before! The good thing is that it comes in spectacular down pours and is accompanied by beautiful lightening shows, usually at night. It is also obviously great for the crops but the accompanying mosquitoes are a nightmare! At one point I feared my feet were going to be parted from my ankles they were so badly bitten! Storms also have a tendency to see off the electricity for a few hours, so we’ve had many a cosy candle lit evening...
This month we’ve been to both a wedding and an ordination. Both were beautiful and both demonstrated the strength and importance of community. With everyone so involved the sense of celebration and joy really permeates proceedings, and I’ve said many times how much these people like to party! 
