A little Liverpool in Tanzania

Towards the end of my stay in Dodoma I was asked if I could help with the purchase of church benches for a satellite parish in the village of Miyugi. The village is extremely poor and the Jumuiyas (small Christian communities) are unable to afford benches. My parish, a good friend and Erin’s family agreed to fund benches. The whole time we were in Tanzania, our names were ‘reinterpreted’ – in Erin’s case with a regularity and lack of concern for gender which caused much hilarity. The plaque on her (Ferris) family’s bench now proudly reads the ‘Perris family’, while my parish is in the interestingly named ‘LiverSpool’. The vagaries of names aside, it is nice to think that there remains a connection between us and Miyugi!

Continuing LInks

As I type this I am back in the UK experiencing the delights of a British summer- dodging ‘showers’ and trying to keep warm! Our final days in Dodoma were packed with events as they coincided with the parish’s feast day, leaving parties for three of the Jesuits and various other unexpected celebrations. Some of the goodbyes were particularly difficult but I know that I’ll maintain links and friendships...

One of the continuing links will be with Sr. Brigitte, one of the teachers at the school. Sr. Brigitte is beginning a new project to help girls and young women who are living in distressed situations. They may be homeless, abused or subjected to various forms of domestic and social violence. Disordered cultural and social practices have pushed them into abusive or forced marriages, slavery in domestic service or the sex trade. Some are subjected to abuse through witchcraft. Their situation is perpetuated by ignorance or fear, which means they are unable to extricate themselves from their situations. Sr. Brigitte’s project is aimed at helping young women to recover mentally, physically and spiritually form abusive backgrounds. She has been given land from the Tanzanian government and hopes to build a hostel for girls and young women, a school building and a retreat centre. Although the support from the government and bishops so far is encouraging, there is a long way to go and funds are low so I’m hoping to come up with ingenious ways of helping... All bright ideas gratefully received!

Rounds of Goodbyes

The rounds of goodbyes are well and truly under way and involve much ‘visiting’, speech making and drinking of soda! I spent Sunday afternoon at the home of a teacher from school who has been a really good friend to me. Vincent is about the most committed and enthusiastic teacher I have ever worked with. He has a tremendous thirst for knowledge and is always coming up with new ways to enrich the curriculum for the kids. His two room home was nice but very simple- stand pipe in the yard for washing, non-flushing latrine, open air kitchen etc. The contrast to my lifestyle as a teacher in the UK was immense.

Then, yesterday we visited his mother’s village. As I’ve been based in town my exposure to village life has been limited. The village, Zuzu, has water pumped to it only twice a week and there is no electricity. ‘Mama Vincent’ lives in a small (crumbling) one room mud house. This year her maize crop failed and she greeted us and the bag of flour we brought her like the biggest blessing. Seeing the background Vincent has come from made his achievements even more impressive. He is the only one of his 7 siblings to have been to secondary school. As so often happens, the older ones clubbed together to pay his fees but barely made them and he had to rely on the kindness of teachers for basics such as soap... It is now up to him to support his family- sobering stuff.

Beginning of the End

Last week schools finished for their long holiday – I keep calling it summer holidays but as this is effectively winter, that’s definately not the case (I even need a big blanket at night at the moment).  The close of school involved all the kids from kindergarten up, undertaking a serious clean-up operation of the whole school and grounds.  They did this with great cheer and enthusiasm, standard 6 boys skidding and sliding round the classroom and they ‘washed the floor’ – teachers nowhere in sight. 

Once the clean up was complete it was time for prize giving and presentations.   Erin and I are leaving as the school opens again, so it was also our goodbye.  The kids were incredibly sweet, loads of hugs, tears, letters, gifts and I even had a song written for me.  Teaching these children really has been a joy and it was hard to leave them, harder still to say goodbye to my little classes at the orphanage and the toddler hangers-on who regularly put in appearances...   Many of the children there are headed back to their original villages during the holidays, so my time formal time there is over too.   The goodbyes really are starting and I don’t like it one bit! 

Everyday Life

Since Easter, life has largely been jogging along in a routine of school, orphanage, and community.  Standard 4 and 7 students are preparing for National Exams and are being ‘tested’ within an inch of themselves!  The pressure is particularly on for Standard 7 as their results will decide their entry to secondary school and in Tanzania, where only 25% of children get a secondary education this is really important.  The present Standard 7 is the first one to go through St. Ignatius’ but they seem to be excelling and have the promise of a brand new Jesuit High School waiting for them if they pass.  It is incredible to witness the hard work of the staff and students – school days from 7:30am–4pm and Saturdays from 7:30–1pm, then there is the homework, which is almost always done...  So different from home! 

I have to say though, I feel really sorry for them with all the constant testing and cramming – not that they seem to mind!  I’ve made a point of taking word searches, games and puzzles for my standard 4s this week though.  The excitement this causes is unbelievable and I’m constantly having kids accost me with finished puzzles, begging for more... 

Lessons at the orphanage have benefitted from the arrival of ‘dress up dolls’ (courtesy of mum) and glossy ‘I Wonder Why?’ type books (courtesy of Uncle Frank).  These have provided opportunities to play (the dolls) but to then introduce the character and describe her outfit in English and to do some basic science complete with funny facts.

We’ve met a lot of very interesting people over the last few weeks.  A friend of ours took us to dinner with her dad who is an MP (he’s held various ministerial positions in the past but is now a back-bencher).  He offered to take us to parliament and sent his driver to collect us after school for the evening session.  They were debating a bill about agriculture of which we understood little except for bits about honey, eggs & foodie type words we’ve learned!  It was interesting to see it in action though – the procedures were incredibly like the House of Commons – right down to the mace.  The sessions are filmed and there was one acutely embarrassing moment  when we became aware of a close up of our white legs beaming out of the big screens – followed swiftly by not-too-well-stifled giggling an numerous  PMs turning round to gaze at us in the balcony!      

In the community, May seems to be the month of birthdays and we started with Erin’s – her celebration at community night was something to behold, with both cake and drink being danced round on heads!  I’m looking forward to the rest of the birthdays and the excuse to bake more cake...

Safari Shenanigans

We went on safari to Mikumi national park last weekend.  The DIY nature of our escapade meant that the whole thing only cost £60 but also that there were a number of mishaps/ adventures along the way.  On Friday we skived work, packed up the Jesuits’ elderly Land Cruiser and headed to Morogoro.  About half way there we got a puncture, so we all piled out while Martin changed the wheel.  In Morogoro we stayed at a Salvatorian seminary where one of the Dodoma community is teaching – it’s in a beautiful situation at the foot of the Uluguru mountains.  We had a good evening at a local restaurant, followed by a bit of star gazing!

On Saturday we headed to Mikumi where we managed to find a bargain motel with, luxury of luxuries, air con in each room!  Even before we got into the park, we’d seen giraffes, elephants and baboons along the side of the road.  The park itself is teeming with life, much of which proved to be obliging when it came to posing for photos!  It was amazing to be so close to the animals in their own habitats.  The natural habitats became less alluring however when we inadvertently drove through an area infested by tsetse flies.  A frantic killing spree ensued after which the Land Cruiser was liberally splattered with blood – killing those things is not pretty!  We then sweltered our way out of the area with all the windows closed, only to emerge with another puncture.  Changing this in the park while in search of lions made the second change of tyre a particularly swift operation!

 

After dinner that night, we returned to my room for Konyagi (local gin) only to have Erin jump on my bed and the whole thing collapse!  By the time the staff had hammered it all back together again we’d nearly finished laughing.  Erin’s bruises are still serving as amusing reminders however...

Sunday was a very early start in the continuing quest for the illusive big cats.  This time we took a guide with us but even he didn’t manage to locate them.  Still, we did find a beautiful spot to have Mass – lovely to celebrate together amidst the early morning sights and sounds of the park.   

When we finally gave up on our simba search, we headed back to Morogoro and our 3rd puncture.  The spare wheel hadn’t yet been mended, so poor Martin had to roll it miles back down the road to have it fixed.  Fortunately someone gave him a lift back on their motorbike. 

After a meal and tyre fix in Morogoro we left for Dodoma and puncture number 4 – in the pitch black for variety!  There then only remained the requisite stop by corrupt police who were hard pushed to find a reason for bribery until they hit on the fact that the interior light wasn’t working.  Kiarie played the priest card and eventually we were ‘let off’ again.   So we’re back with happy memories, great photos and exhaustion we’re hoping isn’t sleeping sickness courtesy of the tsetse flies..

Land of Contrasts

The longer I’m here, the more I become aware of the many layers and contrasts of life in Tanzania.  The greatest joy of being here is the emerging relationships and friendships and the fun and sharing arising from these. 

A couple of weeks ago Mira was really ill and the care, concern and practical help offered to her and us as she struggled to get a diagnosis and treatment was remarkable.  At the same time, the reality of inadequate health provision was brought home.  Mira was eventually admitted to a private clinic.  ‘Private’ in this instance was misleading – although she had a private room it was extremely basic and the actual medical treatment available was limited.  For a ‘real’ hospital you need to make the 7 hour journey to Dar Es Salaam.  They diagnosed her with Typhoid and Malaria (as they apparently do with almost everyone, the theory being that these are likely culprits for most symptoms, so treat for them and hope for the best). 

Almost as soon as she was admitted people started to visit from the Cheshire home where she works.  They came bearing freshly baked bread, juice and fruit.  We soon realised that you don’t get and food or drink in hospital here – friends and relatives provide.  Even Consolatha, a delightful 13 year old from school appeared at our house, helped me make soup and raided my craft pack to head up the production of get well cards. 

The rallying round didn’t seem enough though when we arrived in the evening to find Mira had accidently pulled out her drip, was covered in blood and rehydration fluids and was unable to get the attention of a nurse.  Plus of course, you’re very aware that even this standard of care is beyond most people who have to take their chances at the over-crowded government clinics, or simply go without.

Another eye opener was while playing a ‘Snakes & Ladders’ type game with the kids at the orphanage.  The game encourages the practice of English by giving a topic to talk about on each square.  One of the topics was ‘family’ which I was nervous about but thought we’d stick to siblings.  It turned out that a number of the kids also talked about their parents though.  When I asked the sisters about this later, they explained that lots of the children do have one or both parents but they can’t afford the HIV drugs, so they send them to the orphanage where they know they’ll be given the anti-retrovirals and diet they need.

The contrasts were even more evident last weekend when a now fully recovered Mira, Erin & I enjoyed a fabulous couple of days at Kipepeo beach just south of Dar Es Salaam.  Being surrounded by white tourists and travelling types felt a bit strange at first, but the beautiful beach, warm Indian ocean, good food and mojitos saw off any scruples pretty fast! 

The trip came about as two of the Jesuits were going to Dar to collect a new school bus and we went along for the ride – a ride that was on a bus run by a Muslim company and as it was Friday, we were subjected to 2 hours of loud Arabic chanting & prayers over the radio!  It turned out the ‘new’ school bus is a 1989 Japanese model which they still had to pay £15000 import duty on. (The widespread corruption is incredibly frustrating.  I first encountered it when collecting a parcel for Erin from the post office.  Despite the duty slip saying the equivalent of about 60p was owing, it was not released until I’d handed over £12).  Even after the port officials had been satisfied, we were stopped on the journey home by police who accused us of being a commercial vehicle travelling illegally at night.  The paperwork showing purchase that day did little to persuade them otherwise and they spent an hour trying to extract a bribe.  Eventually they came on the bus and quizzed Erin, Mira & me for a bit in Kiswahili.  We answered what we could and attempted to look as if we understood the rest.  The police then decided we had nice smiles, told the Jesuits they should get us home and let us go without payment.  Can’t imagine quite what they were looking at as I was hard pressed to manage anything like a smile to them! 

Simba Rock

Last weekend we finally made it up Simba Rock – a rocky mountain (or more correctly kind of outcrop) dominating the local area. We've been planning to go almost since we arrived, but something always seemed to crop up. We went up late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and in hope of seeing the sunset. In the event the sunset was nice but not spectacular. I loved lying on the warm rocks at the top though... It was a good time of year to go as the vast plains are incredibly green due to the particularly generous rainy season this year. Typical that I’d come to Africa and have more rain than I’ve ever seen before! The good thing is that it comes in spectacular down pours and is accompanied by beautiful lightening shows, usually at night. It is also obviously great for the crops but the accompanying mosquitoes are a nightmare! At one point I feared my feet were going to be parted from my ankles they were so badly bitten! Storms also have a tendency to see off the electricity for a few hours, so we’ve had many a cosy candle lit evening...

Celebrations

One of the great things about Tanzania is the enthusiasm for celebration. Everything is a celebration – Sunday mass is a weekly example. ‘First Mass’ (at which I’m not a regular attendee as it is at 7:30am!) is a massive affair. When the President is in town he attends alongside the hundreds of regulars who pack in. The choir is amazing – I’ve never heard anything like it. Even hearing them practice in the little band stand in the parish grounds is beautiful, but in full swing with harmonies, dancing and whooping it’s just brilliant. By ‘Third Mass’ (where I’m more usually found and where there is fortunately a similarly good choir), the sanctuary is often littered with gifts bought at the earlier offertory processions. It’s usual to see crates of soft drinks, huge branches of bananas, sacks of rice etc, but last Sunday featured a rather generous amount of toilet roll too!

Every gathering, whether it’s the parish workers’ party, community night at the Sisters’, or just a couple of friends round to our house, features dancing. Attempting to get us mzungus to move like Africans is proving a favourite pastime...

Last Saturday was the school’s annual ‘Family Day’ where staff bring a member of their family and generally celebrate being part of the school. Everyone was appointed to a committee and spent the morning preparing, cooking, decorating, sorting music and entertainment. I can just imagine how such an event would go down at home – get up early on a Saturday, cook all morning then spend the afternoon with colleagues... The lack of cynicism and general enthusiasm here is refreshing though and means the capacity for fun is considerable and opportunities for dancing, many!

Bingo

Last week was a really good one, I feel like things are falling into place and I’m adjusting my expectations... My time at school was more filled. I introduced the ever faithful bingo to standard 3 & 4 (9 & 10 year olds) and they totally loved it, it as did Mama Moshashu, their teacher. She got so excited we couldn’t just stop at one line & then a house – all the other lines were checked and rewarded with stickers too. The kids absolutely loved the stickers and I was mobbed at the end with kids waving bingo tickets & wanting their picture taken. Mama Moshashu greeted me for the rest of the week with “Teacher Clara – BINGO! Very nice game...”

I also started at the orphanage properly. The older kids were at school so I just stayed for the morning and played with the pre-school kids. Mostly they wanted pushing on the swings, to be held while they shimmied up the frame of the swings (some with already with impressive technique!), to have piggy backs & be swung round. One little girl though just wanted to be held and hugged as much as possible – after all the running round I was quite glad to sit down with her while the others conducted a game of ‘cooking’ with 2 jam jar lids, some leaves and soil...

There isn’t much in the way of toys there but the kids (most of whom have lost their parents to AIDS and are HIV positive) are well looked after by the sisters and seem happy. The sisters have asked me to come after school to do some English ‘teaching’ with the older kids. The first time I did this was a Friday and I was worried they wouldn’t want another ‘lesson’ after a week at school, so I’d taken animal snap – once they got over being too polite with each other, they really loved it. We played some other word games – learned such useful vocab as ‘shuffle’, ‘deal’ and ‘cheat’ and they were really keen to know when I’d be back. So much for not wanting lessons after school! The kids were all standard 4 but some of them were older as they’ve missed out on school in the past. One girl, Paulina was 17 – I’d like to try to figure out some more age appropriate things for her. She was totally lovely & really keen to chat & practice speaking English.

As for the Jesuit community – they’ve been incredibly warm and welcoming and have helped us out of more than a few fixes! We decided to have them all over for dinner last weekend but with the lack of dead meat, no oven, no appliances and at one point in the afternoon, no electricity we were hard pushed to produce anything approaching sustenance! Still, somehow we pulled it off and it was a lovely evening. We were 12 people from 9 counties: Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, DRC, Ethiopia, USA, Germany, England, Scotland... That’s one of the best things about this whole experience, coming together with people form very different backgrounds and realising how much we actually share.

A Bin Bag Full of Peanuts

I’ve been assaulted with so many new experiences in the last week that I can’t quite even remember everything but I’ll probably manage the main things... We started school on Monday. As I suspected, it is actually well staffed and organised so I’m not too sure at the moment how much volunteers are really needed. That said the lessons I’ve seen have been mostly copying, partly due to a lack of text books, and the teachers often wonder out to take phone calls etc! St. Ignatius is much better off than government schools and although the buildings and grounds are lovely, they have incredibly limited resources which makes anything but the most didactic teaching methods difficult.

The bus ride to and from school is a real experience. For a start kids are piled about five to a seat and the little ones are passed out of the windows on the journey home! The routine prayers are hilarious – after everyone has been picked up the monitor shouts “Are you ready?” ‘Yes’, “Are you sure?” ‘Yes’, “Let us pray...” and off they rattle through pretty much the entire Mass and the 10 commandments! All this is going on while the ancient bus is bumping along dust roads and everyone is holding on tight over the many ditches and crazy turns.

Next week I’m starting at the orphanage so Erin & I cycled the route on Friday – it’s only about a half hour ride, but with a bike too small, only back brakes working and most of the route through the bush it was completely exhausting! I’m hoping it’ll cancel out the carb laden diet...

One of the most striking things about Tanzanians is how they take time to greet you – every time you see someone there’s a hand shake and system of greetings, depending on age, relationship etc. I’ve just about mastered the basic Kiswahili greetings but every time I think I’ve cracked it, someone adds in a new one... I’ve also become ‘Clara’ again. This was what most people in Sri Lanka called me and I’ve almost given up saying Claire here, as they just look confused before changing it to the Kiswahili ‘Clara’ anyway. At least that’s one word I’m OK with, otherwise I’m proving a slow learner. Despite having learned (I thought) my part of the conversation I somehow came away from my first solo shopping trip with a whole bin bag full of peanuts rather than the small packet I’d meant to add to our rice! We’ll be living off peanuts for a long time to come...

Dar Es Sallam

So after four days of delay, we finally made it to Africa! Fr Edmund was there to meet us at the airport, all smiles and welcoming. Our first African task was to physically push down the back window on his ancient jeep and pass our bags through – not the first time I’ll bemoan my inability to travel light I fear...

The Jesuit community is on the outskirts of Dar Es Salaam, where the Chinese money and the paved roads have yet to reach. I was quite grateful for my Sri Lanka and Bolivia experiences or the journey to their house, with all the sights, sounds and smells of the developing world would have been rather a culture shock.

We spent our first day catching up on sleep and seeing some of the local area. Fr Edmund took us to meet some American Jesuit volunteers and en route Erin and I were accosted by the cutest little kids who were hugging our legs and telling us how beautiful we were – definite flattery given our red faces, frizzy hair and lack of sleep!

This morning Edmund took us down town to change money and get our bus tickets for Dodoma. Than after lunch we visited Gonzaga, the Jesuit primary school. It was the first day back after the holidays and the main attraction was the two swings and see-saws that had appeared over the break - the little ones especially were beside themselves with excitement over them. In one class when we were saying our names, they couldn’t get ‘Erin’ and called her ‘Heaven’ – she loved it! Then it was to Loyola High School – all I can say is that it was another world totally from my more recent experience of high school! It felt like school in Sri Lanka, except this one has really benefited from international aid and has good facilities.

So now we’re making the most of internet access which is right next door to our room here but I suspect will be much harder to come by in Dodoma...

Keeping in Touch

In the last few days of preparation for my 6 months in Tanzania, my mind has been turning more and more to the people I’ll miss. I’ll miss family and friends here in UK enormously, but also friends from further afield... Over the Christmas period old (and new!) friends surfaced through cards, phone calls, Facebook, IM chats and good old e-mail - and all of these methods of communication are going to be limited in Dodoma. I fear this may be one of my biggest challenges! Lots of people have been asking to be kept up to date with my travels and I thought a blog might be a good way to do that. We’ll see how it goes!

So the plan so far it that Erin and I meet up in London on 6^th Jan and spend the night at Jesuit Missionary HQ in Wimbledon before flying to Dar Es Salaam, having a couple of days there to sort visas etc and then make our way to Dodoma where our placements are. In the meantime there is loads of preparing, packing and organising still to do...